"RustedSprinter" (rustedsprinter)
08/06/2015 at 19:12 • Filed to: None
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"RustedSprinter" (rustedsprinter)
08/06/2015 at 19:12 • Filed to: None | 0
| 13 |
So yesterday I said I put new sparks in. The car ran mint until it hit a temperature above 100 degrees F. So I cracked open the BGB (Big Green Book) a shop manual for the car and thumbed to the EGR system. I notice that the EGR is not controlled by the ECU on the MR2. The table attached makes me think that the EGR has trouble switching off when on. My question is there any way I cant just delete the EGR. I found a diagram for it but I’m sorta confused. Would it be possible to leave that pipe circled in yellow?
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RustedSprinter
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 19:39 |
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After 100 degrees it feels like it being fuel cut. So she cant get past 3K RPMs.
DogonCrook
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 19:41 |
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To test it, the hold my beer way, you could buy a hose that fits over it, use an adapter to drop the diameter down and then put a bolt in the smaller hose and clamp all that together with hose clamps. To get an adapter the only thing I can think of at an AutoZone off the shelf would be a pcv valve elbow. Then you can plug all the other hoses, and you still need to plug the manifold. That’s hardly a permanent solution, but if it runs fine then you know it’s the egr. There are ways to unstick an egr, but you’ll need to look that up for your model. You don’t need it for anything other than inspections, but get a delete kit, or look for proper hardware. Popping it out and cleaning it, while you look for hardware is probably the least amount of effort.
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DogonCrook
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 19:46 |
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Get a fuel pressure test kit and some extra fuel line, stick it on after the fuel filter with a T and put the gauge where you can see it in the rear view and watch it while you drive. A fuel pressure and vac test kits are essential tools for troubleshooting, as important as owning wrenches so it’s money well spent.
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RustedSprinter
> DogonCrook
08/06/2015 at 19:46 |
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That might be better then my way. I was just going to cap those 3 hard lines and leave the rest of it hanging there. What do you think of that idea?
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DogonCrook
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 20:00 |
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Worst case I can think of is vac leaks causing high idle, and lean mixture or not run at all, but I suppose you could get away with it. It’s definitely not a permanent solution. Hit up the hardware store and look for plates you can bolt down and get some of that gasket you can cut to fit. Don’t use gasket maker though. Doesn’t need to look pretty just seal.
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RustedSprinter
> DogonCrook
08/06/2015 at 20:04 |
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You think its going to give it a high idle?
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DogonCrook
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 20:05 |
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If it doesn’t have electrical connections though just dump it in a bowl of carb cleaner or seafoam over night and see if that works. I don’t think it’s your egr anyways though, that’s a vac leak, so it won’t run well at any temperature.
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DogonCrook
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 20:07 |
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If it’s letting air in it will.
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RustedSprinter
> DogonCrook
08/06/2015 at 20:19 |
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I’ll check for vac leaks around the BSVS. Thats opening around 129 degrees. Maybe it piping too much air into the intake.
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DogonCrook
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 20:33 |
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Does it have a high idle?
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RustedSprinter
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 20:39 |
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It idles at 1500ish cold and after a few minutes down to 1k.
samssun
> RustedSprinter
08/06/2015 at 20:47 |
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Are you capping at the EGR equipment or up by the manifold? Shorter is better, and if you search “vacuum caps” you can find little covers made specifically for vacuum lines. They should fit snugly, and you can put a small zip tie past the lines’ flared ending to really secure them.
If you grab a zip tie with needle nose pliers and roll it, you can really torque them down tight.
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RustedSprinter
> samssun
08/06/2015 at 20:54 |
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My plan right now is to try to cap those 3 lines in the green circle.